Tuesday, 31 March 2009

So Long, Greece


This gives you some idea of why I haven't blogged for a week. David and I flew into Athens with Tess and spent three days checking out the Acropolis and living in a suburb where total strangers gave us almonds, pastries, blood oranges, and drinks, which was pretty much magical. James flew in for our last evening, and then we caught an overnight ferry to Iraklion and a bus to Chania, where we spent the day eating bougatsa, jogging along the beach, and wandering around the old city before attempting (and succeeding!) to make tzaziki and salad ourselves. (I also made everyone try a bottle of retsina that I got for less than one euro. Everyone hated it, so I finished the bottle myself and pretended I was being culturally sensitive.) David and I hiked to the west of Chania, then spent our last full day taking a bus up the Akrotiri peninsula to Stavros, where we played with dogs on a beach, got yelled at by a shepherd, were harassed by a herd of goats on two separate occasions, climbed a volcano, and managed to eat a loaf of bread and avocado on the beach for lunch with no silverware whatsoever. And then I finished the New York Times crossword over a cup of Greek coffee on our balcony and we went to Tamam for grape leaves and yogurt, stuffed peppers and tomatoes, and boureki for David's birthday, and it was a pretty uniformly excellent day. And then the next 48 hours are pretty much a blur because they involved a bus to Iraklion, exploring the palace at Knossos, an overnight ferry to Athens, a day on the Pnyx and at the National Archaeological Museum, and then various subways, buses, and airplanes from Athens to Piraeus to the airport to Gatwick to Oxford. And now I have to learn to be in a library again and to deal with my badly sunburnt face.

I did follow the flooding in Fargo as closely as possible from Greece. My grandparents were evacuated from their place in Moorhead, and my parents moved everything in our basement up into the garage in case the Sheyenne goes over its banks. My mom said everyone's just kind of sitting tight and waiting to see if the river will crest higher after the storms this week, but apparently they're housebound, school has been cancelled for over a week, all nonessential businesses have been asked to close until further notice, and the National Guard is everywhere. She said it's like a war zone. This didn't really help assuage my guilt after spending the past week on beaches in the Mediterranean, which is part of the reason I might embargo my pictures for a couple of weeks to prevent being kicked out of my family.

Wednesday, 25 March 2009

In Which I Put the Grr in Greece

Ugh, I have an interview for a fellowship today and I've been having these mini-panic attacks sporadically over the past few days where I think about the fact that I'm shortlisted for three full years of doctoral funding and a stipend, and I've somehow managed to schedule it so I'm doing a roundtable interview with eight interviewers by Skype in the lobby of a hotel on the fringes of Athens using quasi-functional wifi and my boyfriend's cell phone as a backup. This is pretty much a textbook example of how not to get a fellowship. And while I'm kind of understandably stressed about this, I didn't realize how stressed I was until Tess and David offered to go find a SIM card as I wrote my presentation last night, couldn't find a cheap one, and were afraid to come back to the hotel empty-handed. It's times like these when I actually hate myself.

Anyway, the interview is in 45 minutes, and then I can stop freaking out and let go and let Zeus or whatever. I was kind of expecting Athens to be stressful and urban and then Crete to be relaxing and low-key, but we're a little ways out of Athens and our neighborhood has been totally great. We did walk all over the city to see the Acropolis and Agora and everything yesterday, but we've also just been poking around the suburbs and getting free stuff from random and kindly people who think our cluelessness is endearing. (A couple bought us a giant bag of nuts on the street, and then we went to a bakery and they gave us a bag of free pastries and biscotti, and we were walking through the market yesterday morning and a vendor gave us a sack of blood oranges. I'm very much a fan of this place.) And once James gets into the city after the interview, we're all just trucking around until we leave for Crete on the overnight ferry tonight, and then we'll be in Hania and I won't have any bus schedules or hotel reservations or maps to manage for the rest of the trip and my blood pressure will drop so far that I might die and that is excellent.

Sunday, 22 March 2009

You Can Take the Boy Out of RWing...

Because we'll be taking some overnight ferries and generally bopping around, my goal was to have everything transportable in a backpack so I wouldn't have to carry a duffel bag all over Greece. It's not like I have that much to take, and it'd make it infinitely easier to keep track of my stuff if I could just pretend to be a turtle for the week. I just finished packing, and I am suddenly apprehensive about this plan.

Backpacks are so much smaller than they look.

It all fits if I take a little day pouch for my books and my impossibly tiny camera, but barely. I thought about only bringing four days worth of clothes and then washing them at a laundromat (and by "laundromat" I probably mean "the sink in our apartment"), but this is my only respite until my thesis is due and I don't think it's too much to ask to have soft clothes and not develop soap leprosy during your vacation. So I'm going to throw caution and intelligence to the wind and just wing it with a backpack that I'm pretty sure is smaller than the one I had in elementary school, and when it breaks and I lose all of my possessions, it'll be fine because I could only fit like five things in there anyway. I love budget travel.

Spotify Is the Coolest

I just downloaded Spotify and I've been streaming a bunch of albums that I probably wouldn't buy but are still tremendous, like Alanis Morissette's Flavors of Entanglement, Alphabeat's This is Alphabeat, and the soundtrack to the 2006 revival of Company with Raul Esparza. So I guess I'm one of those people who uses streaming music to freeload off of record companies without actually purchasing music.

That said, I'm currently streaming Tout Le Monde Veut Devenir Un Cat from the French soundtrack to the Aristocats, so nobody can say I'm not being a good customer and using it to expand my musical horizons. Spotify is awesome.

Saturday, 21 March 2009

Greece

I'm leaving for Greece in t minus 24 hours, and it looks like we've finally got the buses, hotels, and ferries finalized for three days in Athens and four days mucking around in Crete. If anyone has recommendations for things to actually do, those would be especially appreciated. (So far, we're like, "meh, we should probably go to the Acropolis," so there's plenty of space on the agenda.)

Like the anthropologist I pretend to be, I've pregamed the trip by reading Michael Herzfeld's Cultural Intimacy: Social Poetics in the Nation-State. I'm not sure that it'll be helpful since I don't think I'm going to engage in a lot of Cretan sheep theft while I'm there, but it's the only ethnography about Greece on my list of readings to prep for exams when I return. Ugh, being a vegetarian takes all the fun out of travel.

When Gender Studies Majors Date

"Okay, I need to go to the gym."
"And I'll let you go, because I recognize that you're an autonomous being even if you're not prediscursive."
"Aww, that's the nicest thing anyone's said to me all day."

Thursday, 19 March 2009

Good Morning

"Are you already watching TV?"
"I'm watching Gossip Girl."
"That's like drinking a shot of vodka when you wake up."